Antica Osteria il Ronchettino is a historic sign dedicated to Milanese cuisine: the review with the menu, the prices, the dishes to try, our opinions.
There seems to be an unspoken agreement between chef Simone Zanon and the property of Antica Osteria il Ronchettinorestaurant of Milan in a beautiful farmhouse hidden like a shy flower among anonymous dormitory buildings on the southern outskirts. The Lombard classics must all be on the menu, as long as you leave a free hand to the chef for his own ideas.
Let’s forget about reinterpretations, innovations, the usual creative cuisine. No, simply the ideas and the inspiration of a young and contemporary chef who could only invent “tradition”, not having lived it for personal reasons. So we might as well propose a Milanese cuisine seen from a slightly different and more sensible angle. For this reason, the classic Ronchettino recipes, even when adhering to a hypothetical traditional discipline, always have a breath of fresh air around them, light. The yellowish and worn patina of home and proletarian cuisine, as per conventional narrative, is not represented here.
The pictorial and rural beauty of the chicken salad in green sauce with winter vegetables would be incongruous in a typical yellowish and homemade trattoria. It emanates a sense of new and spontaneous despite its simplicity and lack of anything truly innovative.
The high cutlet seems to wink in a very fanciful and ironic way to the culture of fast food. It looks like a sumptuous and rich burger, without a burger. It is garnished with crispy, savory and shiny bacon, and placed on a svirgolata of carrot BBQ sauce with the addition of fiolar broccoli. Inside it is just pink, juicy and delightful. The frying is attenuated under the cooking sauce that covers it, the reference to the noble and unjustly mistreated consistency of the soaked fried, dear to the Japanese, Chinese and Korean taste, is very clear although perhaps involuntary.
In the low varinate, the elephant ear cutlet is also available in double size. Outrageous in idea and price, and appropriately called “imperial”. But the single one is just fine, it is itself huge, not too thin and therefore neither dull nor withered. The flakes of almonds that enrich the breading glisten like bronze amber fragments.
We are just a couple of weeks early to be able to enjoy the fabulous garden of this ancient farmhouse, on our arrival beaten by a crisp breeze in this senseless winter twist in early April. The garden is a real strength, even if between lights, decorative lanterns and Provençal-style white iron tables it is easy to play with a graceful and bucolic albeit conventional aesthetic. Easy emotions are also the target of the internal environment, warm, hyper decorated, tending to kitsch. The sense of enveloping feel-good clashes at times with the creeping restlessness that a confirmation banquet could suddenly come to life out of nowhere.
Collecting memories and feelings about the service I realize that I have none, not because it was absent. Indeed, what little it was possible to notice seemed to me to be pertinent and polite. But as totally obscured by the figure of the head nurse. You have to get used to it a bit, it’s an acquired taste, let’s say. You have to set the attention as when you listen to whatsapp vowels at x2. In the excitement and monstrous amount of anecdotes and information that it packs into each phoneme, something is lost. Some goodies, however, I had the good fortune to register them, such as the fact that Milanese cuisine would be like the queen whose head must be cut off. A ferrous wine with a marked minerality is needed to degrease so much proud opulence. In the cellar there is what is right for us, a small artisan production Grignolino from Asti, like all the rest of the paper, not too long but very qualified.
The yellow risotto is available in two versions, with ossobuco and with sautéed kidney. Slightly on the wave, well grained, the ill-thinkers might find it barely untied. But I have the impression that the real Milanese risotto does not always have to be a triumph of creaminess. Decadent and rustic, simple and eccentric at the same time, the spaghettone with frayed tripe and black truffle flakes is delicious. An acidulous and complex aromatic note enhances the thrust of the truffle instead of this elbowing.
Fried brains are a frothy, fragrant cloud of sweet, white matter in a perfect burnished fry. The best appetizer is however the sweet and sour nerve salad as per historical preparation. The cannellini bean cream is in chromatic and material assonance with the collagen of the nerves in a powerful and delicate combination at the same time. All broken up by an exotic and refined touch, thrown there with nonchalance like Jerez vinegar.
Prices are proportionate to the ambition of the place and to the reference context.
Anyone who believes that Milanese cuisine is a purely winter issue would do wrong not to go to Ronchettino even in the summer. The garden that completes this ancient farmhouse is one of its trump cards. The kitchen is an excellent middle point between an adequate representation of the Milanese classics and the fresh and refurbished point of view of a talented young chef. Very well thought out wine list.
- Enchanting location, although the interiors refer to a slightly kitschy taste.
- The classic Milanese dishes in a state of grace.
- Concise but very qualified and original wine list.
- For lovers of hyper creamy and voluptuous yellow risotto, the one proposed here is in a more sober version that could leave you less enthusiastic.